Let’s first look at simulants vs synthetics…
—Simulants are defined as gemstones used to resemble another gem. For example, a diamond simulate might be a natural white zircon, cubic zirconia, or a synthetic moissanite. It could even be glass.
—Synthetics are gems with the same chemical and similar physical properties to it’s natural counterpart; except made in a lab. Sometimes these synthetics are actually grown from a genuine “seed” gem.
—Adulterated diamonds and gemstones may be natural or synthetic, but have undergone treatments to improve their marketability for color or clarity. Examples might be heat treatment, glass (fissure) filling, dying, laser drilling (to improve clarity), or lattice diffusion.
I think it’s important for people to understand that natural diamonds aren’t generally rare unless they are naturally colored. They are a controlled market. I can delve into that whole topic another time as well. Because they come with a hefty price tag, I believe it’s important for people to understand what they are buying.
The market is currently flooded with synthetic, or “lab-grown” diamonds. These diamonds are created in a lab often using a process called chemical vapor deposition (CVD), and often high pressure hight temperature (HPHT) as well. Perhaps I can go into that process more in a later blog. For now, I’ll just say, these are true synthetic diamonds made of crystalized carbon. They can run as little 1/10th of the cost of their natural counterpart retail!
The recent surge, by demand and production, have begun to bring the cost down in both synthetics and natural diamonds. I worked for one major retail distributor that is now outselling synthetic diamond rings, to the natural ones. Even a gemologist wouldn’t notice a difference without good magnification—but even then, it may require further analysis.
Synthetic moissanites are a popular diamond simulate on the market. They didn’t pick up in popularity in the same way lab grown diamonds did. Synthetic moissanites exhibit more fire than a diamond and are very hard stones as well. They are beautiful gems in their own right. Charles and Colvard have produced some of the finest moissanite on the market and continue to be a trusted name—especially now that cheaper produced material is beginning to flood the market.
Other common simulants for diamonds include cubic zirconia (CZ), and yttrium aluminum garnet (YAG). Cz’s are the cheapest to produce and by far more common. They are singly refractive like a diamond is (don’t show doubling of facet junctions under magnification). They are softer than diamonds and don’t have the thermal conductivity that both diamonds and moissanites have. You will notice too, after hand washing, or using lotion, your cz will begin to appear foggy until it’s cleaned again—unlike a diamond or moissanite. Still, they remain most popular in fashion jewelry.
So the question may present itself as to whether or not to purchase a natural diamond or a or lab-grown one. I might encourage you then to consider why you are buying it. Are you looking for the vanity of a fine diamond without the price tag? Or, are you looking for an heirloom? Keep in mind, the price of the more common diamonds (under 1ct, VVS or less in clarity, and non-colorless, non-fancy colored) are not shifting favorably for investment at this time. On the other hand, neither are lab-grown diamonds. Fine moissanites (colorless, precision cut, VVS or better) seem to be holding more steady. I would not refer to them as an investment though.
My lab-grown diamond earrings have already lost half their retail value in just a couple years. The company in which I traded lower quality natural diamonds for, will only allow trade on the current market value of lab-growns—vs, allowing their customers to retain the actual price paid for natural diamonds, plus at least $1 up toward trade. Essentially, on paper, I lost big on my trade; however, I actually wear my lab-grown diamonds and really enjoy them!
If you insist on a natural diamond, but want a larger more affordable stone, you can sometimes find ones that have been adulterated to improve color by laser, HPHT, or other methods. Just remember, these don’t hold their value the same way a natural untreated diamond would. They can be harder to resell.
Please feel free to contact me if you have further questions or are interested in obtaining diamonds of any kind.